The Run Down

Few things symbolize summer like ice cream and boating, and Chicago offers myriad options to embrace them both. The Chicago River cuts through the city’s urban sprawl with 156 miles of water, and today you'll get busy exploring it. You’ll start the afternoon in nature at a North Center boathouse and end by treating yourself to sweets at one of Chicago’s oldest and most iconic ice cream parlors.

1. Kayaking @ Chicago River Canoe & Kayak

2. Sweet Treats @ Margie's Candies

1. Chicago River Canoe & Kayak

The adventure starts at Clark Park, an oasis in the middle of a busy metropolis. Nestled just west of Lane Tech High School, the WMS Boathouse opened in 2013 as part of a citywide effort to reclaim the Chicago River as a source of water-based recreation. Here, you’ll find Chicago River Canoe & Kayak, which also operates at four other locations in the city and suburbs.

Parking is easy on the street or in an adjacent lot but if you choose to start the adventure with a bike ride, the boathouse is off the North Shore Channel bike trail. Once there, get ready to choose from canoes and solo or tandem kayaks. Chicago River Canoe & Kayak operates on a first-come, first-served basis, and wait time is usually minimal.

After you sign a quick waiver, the team will get everyone outfitted. They provide life jackets, paddles and boats, so all you need are water-resistant shoes, sunscreen and a thirst for adventure. You’ll watch a brief demonstration, ask any questions, and then you’re off.

Heading north toward Addison Street, you’ll be immediately transported from the hustle and bustle of the city. You’ll float past a mix of graffiti and greenery, questionable objects that look like abandoned ships and other boaters out for a ride. Cars cross the bridges at Addison Street and Irving Park Road as you paddle under, but you’ll be in your little world and barely notice them.

You’re almost guaranteed to see a few ducks, and on a clear day, there is a possibility of spotting beaver, coyotes, bald eagles and turtles. Even beginner kayakers will be able to steer toward sights and stops they want to visit. You may get splashed a few times as you paddle but are unlikely to get soaked. Still, it’s advantageous to put your phone in a protective case.

When you are ready to turn around, head back to the boathouse and the staff will help you out of the kayak. Chicago River & Kayak charges by the hour, and you pay when you return the boat. The boathouse does have bathrooms and vending machines, but save your appetite for the next stop.

2. Margie’s Candies

Now everyone is hot, hungry and screaming for ice cream. A 10-minute drive south on Western Avenue takes you to Margie’s Candies, a family-owned and -operated Chicago landmark.

The storefront at Western and Armitage Avenues is the original location and has been serving up generous scoops of ice cream from homemade recipes since 1921. The restaurant is named after family matriarch Margie Poulos, who died in 1995 but left quite a legacy.

Walking in, you’ll be engulfed with the smells of sugary confections and buttery toffee. The eclectic interior is like stepping back in time, with neon signs, jukeboxes and wait staff jotting down orders on old-fashioned pads of paper — there are no apps for that here.

An expansive display case in the middle of the store tempts you with hand-dipped chocolates, marshmallows, turtles and other candies. Lollipops the size of your eyes, and the kiddo’s sweet tooth, with their bright colors and psychedelic swirls.

Especially on a busy weekend, you’ll likely have to put your name in to get a spot. But turnover for a table is quick, and good things come to those who wait. Before you know it, you’ll be snuggled into a booth and salivating at the dishes walking past.

The menu is a Wonka-esque book of sweets and treats that kids of any age will savor. Sure, you can also get a corned beef sandwich, but let’s be real — you’re here for the ice cream. This dairy delight comes in a mind-boggling array of styles, from shakes and sundaes to malts and pie a la mode. And of course, there’s the classic banana split with all the requisite topping options including hot fudge, whipped cream, nuts and a cherry on top.

Portions are beyond generous, and even the junior split should be plenty to satisfy a hungry young kayaker. Kiddos 12 and under can choose two different scoops of ice cream, in flavors from classic strawberry to decadent butter pecan. And, really, everything here is decadent — just as Margie would have wanted it.

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